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6
NOTE: DIAGRAMS & ILLUSTRATIONS NOT TO SCALE.
MAINTENANCE GUIDELINES
Your fireplace is designed to operate trouble-
free with minimum maintenance. However, like
any fine appliance, it deserves and requires
some housekeeping attention.
Your fireplace will perform better – and cer-
tainly look more attractive to family and friends
– if it is cleaned before each use. Before the first
seasonal use in Autumn and after the last fire in
Spring, it is important to inspect the fireplace
system carefully. We recommend at least two
complete fireplace inspections a year.
Before Each Use
1. Clean the firebox of excessive ashes. Some
owners prefer to leave a small layer to insulate
the cold refractory below the grate which helps
fire starting.
This fireplace has a factory supplied grate at-
tached, it is permissible to remove the grate for
cleaning; however, the grate must be re-at-
tached to the fireplace before the next burn.
2. Keep the fireplace screens clean so combus-
tion air flows freely.
3. Spot check the brick-like refractory for small
cracks. Heat from the fire expands it slightly.
When it cools, it contracts.
TWICE A YEAR CHECK-UP
Normally, twice a year, you should inspect your
fireplace following this list:
1. Inspect the opening in your chimney top and
remove any debris that could clog it. The cap is
usually held in place by four (4) screws, which
remove easily for checking or cleaning the full
length of the flue from above. Remove the
chimney top while wearing gloves to guard
against any sharp metal edges.
2. Inspect the entire flue from the top down for
obstructions such as birds nests, leaves, etc.
This may be done by using a flexible handled
chimney cleaning brush. If the chimney con-
tains offset/return elbows; a soft brush cleaning
from the top down to any elbow and then from
the firebox up to the offset/return section is the
proper method. The beam from a powerful
flashlight will help in this inspection.
3. Look up from inside the fireplace (damper
open) to see any obstructions in the lower flue
area. If present, shut the damper and glass doors
(if installed) to seal the firebox and contain any
soot that might fall.
TROUBLESHOOTING
No Smoking Allowed
Your new fireplace is designed not to smoke if
properly installed and operated per our instruc-
tions. If you do experience a problem, here are
several things to check:
1. Remember – always check to ensure your
flue damper is in the open position before
lighting a fire!
2. When lighting your fire, a little smoke may
escape into the room – more likely if the chim-
ney is cold. To correct this, hold a lighted
newspaper up inside the firebox near the open
flue damper. This will turn around any down-
draft and clear the flue of cold air. As your log
fire burns below, the updraft will improve as the
chimney heats up.
3. Is your fire too far forward? Move it toward
the back with your poker. Keep the fire well
within the confines of your fuel grate.
4. Keep your fire up on the grate and the
refractory below free of excessive ashes. The
fire needs plenty of air movement around the
logs.
5. If smoking occurs an hour or two after
lighting the fire, perhaps your well-insulated
house is too airtight and there is scarcely any
way for replacement air to enter and feed the
fire. Check to see if your outside combustion air
kit (if installed) is open. Check outside to ensure
no obstructions are in front of exterior air entry.
Open a window slightly, open doors to one or
two rooms and see if this stops the smoking.
6. Is a vent fan, exhaust hood or central
heating/cooling system stealing combustion
air from your fireplace? If their volume is high
enough, this can cause negative pressure and
an unwanted downdraft – and smoking.
7. Is your wood fuel too wet or unseasoned?
Or does it contain some chemical substance
that causes sputtering, smoking and toxic
fumes?
8.
Figure 6
illustrates the correct height of
your chimney top. It is unlikely that your instal-
lation does not adhere to the installation
instructions. However, if not correct, you could
experience an unusual downdraft. Usually, the
best solution is to increase the chimney height.
This may also be necessary if nearby trees,
adjoining roof lines or a hill is causing a down-
draft condition.
9. Remember, your fireplace has been de-
signed as a supplemental heating device only,
it is not intended to heat your entire home.
CREOSOTE FORMATION AND REMOVAL
When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar
and other organic vapors, which combine with
expelled moisture to form creosote. The creo-
sote vapors condense in the relatively cool
chimney flue of a slow-burning fire. As a result,
creosote residue accumulates on the flue lin-
ing. When ignited, this creosote makes an
extremely hot fire.
The chimney should be inspected at least twice
yearly during the heating season to determine
if a creosote build-up has occurred.
If creosote has accumulated, it should be re-
moved to reduce the risk of a chimney fire.
If creosote build-up is found, do not use chemi-
cal chimney cleaners that are poured on a hot
fire. The chemical cleaners can be dangerous
and generally only work on the flue section
nearest the fire, leaving the rest of the flue
unaffected. It is best to take the time to clean the
flue as previously described or have the chim-
ney professionally cleaned by a qualified
chimney sweep.
If your do not have glass doors installed, a damp
sheet covering the fireplace opening and sealed
with masking tape will do. Then clean the flue
from the top down (if an offset system, clean per
Step 2) using a proper size chimney brush with
flexible pole sections. Don’t open the doors or
remove the sheet until all soot has settled.
Vacuum, don’t sweep.
4. Check the metal flashing and seals around
your chimney. Seal any cracks or loose nail-
head openings to prevent roof leaks.
5. Clean the firebox thoroughly by using a soft
brush or equivalent.
WARNING: CONTINUED OVERFIRING
CAN PERMANENTLY DAMAGE YOUR
FIREPLACE SYSTEM. SOME EXAMPLES
OF OVERFIRING ARE:
• BURNING QUANTITIES OF SCRAP
LUMBER, PINE BRANCHES, PAPER OR
CARDBOARD BOXES WHICH EXCEED
THE VOLUME OF THE NORMAL LOG
FIRE.
• USE OF ARTIFICIAL WAX BASE LOGS,
TRASH OR OTHER CHEMICALS OR
CHEMICALLY TREATED COMBUS-
TIBLES.